SF 495 
.H64 
Copy 1 



i »x/ \ 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

i^np. Caprfrijfjt f}a. 

Shelf .Ak>A . 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



U 



E?LANS FOI^ (SONSCTI^UGJfllNG 



THE 



IMPROVED HAMMONTON 



INCUBATORS 



ALSO INFORMATION ON 



Incubation and Appliances, 



BY- 



J. ^V. HILE, 



VALLEY FALLS, KAN. 



REVISED EDITION, PRICE 25 Cts. 



DES MOINES: 

LIOWA PRINTING COMPANY, 
1888. 



©LANS FOI^ ©ONSH^UGTING 



THE 



IMPROVED HAMMONTON 



INCUBATORS 



ALSO INFORMATION ON 



Incubation and Appliances, 



BY- 



V 
J. W. HI LB, 



VALLEY FALLS, KAN. 



REUISED EDITION, PRICE 25 Cts. 




DES MOINES: 

IOWA PRINTING COMPANY, 

1888. 



4=15 
■HL4 



Entered according to Act r f Congress, in the year 1888, 

By J. W. HILE, 

In ih» alSlce of thel^brariap of* Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



i 



INDEX^ 



Preface p. 2 

Heat Regulators' 3-6 

Egg Turners 6-7 

Egg Drawers 7-9 

Incubators 9-10 

Plans for Constructing Hot Air Incubators 11-15 

Hot Air Moisture Apparatus 15-19 

Hot Air iDcubators (Continued) 19-22 

Walls of Incubators 22-23 

Plans for Circulating Hot Water Incubators .... 23-25 

Hot Water Moisture Apparatus 25-26 

Rules for Running an Incubator 26-31 

Incubation 31-33 

Egg Tester 33-34 

Standard Moisture Gauge 34-35 

Brooders 35-37 

Feeding and Care of Little Chicks 37-39 

Business Notes 39-40 

Recapitulation 40-42 

Testimonials 42-44 

Latest Improvements 44-45 

Price of Lamp Incubators and Supplies 45-46 

Bone Mills 47 



PKEFACE. 



My object in revising my little book is, 

1ft. To correct typographical errors which ap- 
peared in the first edition. 

2nd. To enlarge. 

3d. To simplify the directions for constructing 
the Incubators. 

4th. To give clearer ideas and more information 
on Incubation and appliances. 

5th. To make the book a favorite among poultry 
breeders in general, feeling confident it fills a want 
which has long been felt by thousands who have 
been anxiously looking for a more practical Incu- 
bator and more practical instructions on Incubation, 
than has heretofore been offered to the public. 

It is not unusual to find articles in various jour- 
nals condemning artificial incubation, written by 
egotistical men of limited experience, who have 
tried one, two or three fraud Incubators, and found 
artificial Incubators to be a failure (?). 

The practicability of artificial incubation is no 
longer a question with men of experience. The 
question is, what make of Incubators will do the 
best work? J. "W". Hile. 

2 



ARTIFICIAL IJSTOCTBATIOK 



Failures in hatching with Incubators are gener- 
ally due to the following causes : 
1st. Irregular heat. 
2d. Too much heat under the eggs. 

DO 

3d. Jarring of the eggs while turning them. 
4th. Too much or not sufficient moisture. 
5th. Too much or not sufficient ventilation. 
These difficulties may all be easily overcome by 
the following devices: 

HEAT BEGTTLATOKS. 

I have invented, tested and perfected a Heat Reg- 
ulator, adapted to any kind of an Incubator having 
drawers with square corners, of any size, not less 
than 18x24 inches and not less than 3 J inches deep 
inside; by means of four flat bars of zinc, one on 
each side and one on each end, level with the top of 
the eggs, just outside of the eggs in the drawer. 
With quadruple compound leverage, the four bars 
represent an equivalent expansion and contraction 
of from fourteen hundred to two thousand feet of 
zinc, which gives an action of from one-fourth to 
over five-sixteenths of an inch to a degree, and this 
action is susceptible of being increased or dimin- 



4: ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

ished, as desired, in attaching the connecting rod 
to the valve. 

The heated air is drawn from under the heater 
by means of one or more tin tubes running from 
below the edge of the bottom of the heater between 
the heater and egg drawer, outside of the heater on 
the top, near the center into a valve cup. 

The valve cap is placed on the valve cup. "When 
the valve is open the heated air passes through these 
tubes and out through the valve. The lower ends 
of these tubes should not extend far enough inward to 
strike the drawer. When the drawers run close to 
the heater, holes should be bored through the upper 
edge of the drawer to allow the heat to pass into 
the tubes. The valve is connected to the regulator, 
by rods running outside of the Incubator to the 
front of the drawer and through the front of the 
drawer to the regulator. 

When the drawer is to be pulled out one rod is 
unhooked. When the heat rises above the degree, 
or a fraction of a degree, on which it may be set, 
the valve will open from -J- to £ of an inch to a de- 
gree, as desired. When the temperature falls to 
the degree to which it may be set, the valve will 
close. This will ventilate the eggs and keep the air 
in a good, healthy condition, and the temperature 
equal. The degree of heat on the top of the eggs 
in the drawer is registered on the outside on the 
top of the Incubator by means of a hand and dial. 
The regulator may be attached to lamp to turn wick 
up or down. This is not advisable except for 
brooders. It is much better to regulate the flame 
by hand. Should the heat run too high the valve 
will open in proportion to the intensity of the heat, 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 5 

and let the heat pass out. You should become accus- 
tomed to the size the flame should be for yonr In- 
cubator and burn the wick to supply a little more 
heat than may be required for 102, 103, or 104 de- 
grees so the valve will open about -J- of an inch 
(more or less) every one or two hours, and within 
two hours after the drawer has been pulled out. 

The Regulators are as sensiti ve as any Incubator 
thermometer. No battery or rubber used; can be 
easily attached, and are not liable to get out of or- 
der. They will require space of two eggs only. 
Every regulator will be guaranteed to do the work 
as represented, if attached according to directions, 
which any one having ordinary mechanical judg- 
ment can easily attach and adjust. Price of Reg- 
ulator complete with cap and valve, for valve cup 
without the tin tubes, $5.50. Boxing 25 cents. 

I find my prices on Regulators will not justify 
me in furnishing the box, therefore do not waste 
stamps in writing for discounts. 

Instructions sent With each Regulator. In or- 
dering, send the exact inside measurement of the 
drawer, and state whether it slides in the long way 
or the short way; also give the exact measurement 
from the inside of the drawer to the outside front 
of the Incubator, and state its capacity. 

I am not an experimental inventor. Before I un- 
dertake to build a new machine it must be complete 
in my mind in all its parts and in harmony with 
all the laws governing its actions, otherwise, as a 
rule, I will not undertake to build the machine. As 
simple as my Regulators may appear to be they re- 
quired more experimenting to make them absolutely 
practical and reliable than all the machines I ever 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 



invented. I do not hesitate to state this Regula- 
tor is the most practical, reliable and durable In- 
cubator heat Regulator in use. 

EGG- TURNERS. 

My Temperature Divider and Egg Turner com- 
bined, has proven a success beyond my expectations. 
With it an Incubator will hold more eggs than with 
a slat- turner, of which you will hatch a larger per 
cent.; the chick will come out much stronger and 
healthier, from the fact it covers almost the entire 
surface of the egg-drawer and therefore keeps the 
eggs cooler on the under side and aids in keeping 
the heat at a more even temperature on the top, and 
yet leaves sufficient space for cool air to pass upward 
for the chicks and for circulation, ana does away 
with the sudden jar which is so injurious to the 
eggs. It also furnishes a good surface for chicks 
while hatching. Remember, their position lying 
across the small slats in their weak condition as 
they emerge from the shell frequently destroys life. 
It also, to a great extent, protects the cloth under- 
neath from becoming soiled, and is easily removed 
to clean the drawer. Iron rods are connected to the 
Turner so the eggs may be turned without pulling 
out the drawer. It will pay any one in less than 
one season to take out their slat-turners and use 
mine. I guarantee these Turners to do the work 
and give satisfaction as represented. The advan- 
tages of this improvement are too easily compre- 
hended to be mistaken for a frivolous affair. The 
Turners are light and made in sections, so they can 
be sent by express at a small cost. Price, complete 
to fit any drawer 30x42 1 or less, $2.50 each. In 
ordering, send the exact inside measurement of your 
drawer and the number of inches from the inside 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 7 

of drawer to front of Incubator. State if the drawer 
slides in the longest or shortest way. I will send 
fill] instructions. The Turners are in two parts, so 
constructed you can turn all the eggs at once, or one- 
half without turning the balance. 

Anyone running a hot air, common sense, hot 
water, or any kind of Incubator, cannot afford to 
be without one. 

EGG DRAWEES. 

Should you want an Egg Drawer complete, with 
Regulator and Turner- attached, made so the large 
end of the eggs, will be higher than the small end, 
(the position the eggs should be in to secure the 
best hatches,) to fit your Incubator, send the exact 
outside measurement the drawer should be, and the 
measurement from the inside of the drawer to the 
front of the Incubator, and also the height the drawer 
should be. I will furnish a drawer, as above, to hold 
any number of eggs from 200 to 300, for $10.50, 
smaller drawers, capacity, 150 eggs, $10.00; 130 
eggs, $9.50. 

You can build the Incubator after your own plan. 
I would state, however, that drawers should not be 
made too large. A large drawer full of eggs can- 
not be properly attended to while the chicks are 
coming out, particularly when the weather is a lit- 
tle cold, without great injury to the chicks. A 
drawer 30x41, with my Turner, will hold 240 eggs 
and leave 2J inches space for turning eggs, and 
sufficient room for each egg so they will not touch, 
there being no slats to take up space. One rotten 
egg touching fertile eggs frequently destroys the life 
germ. I would, however, prefer a smaller drawer; 
25x41 inside of drawer will hold 200 eggs. If you 



8 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

want a larger Incubator, make it to hold two, three, 
four or six drawers. One Regulator will do for any 
number of drawers to eight for one Incubator. 

I keep Regulators and Turners in stock for draw- 
ers 25x28, 25x32, 25x41, 30x40 and 30x41; can fill 
orders for irregular sizes within ten days from re- 
ceipt of order. Tested Incubator Thermometers, 75 
cents each, by mail; brass tubes for moisture supply 
apparatus, 35 cents each, by mail, safe pressed tin 
Incubator lamps 75 cents, without chimney. Moist- 
ure gauges, 25 cents each, by mail. 

Turners and Regulators cannot be sent by mail. 
I ship them, in light boxes, 4 inches deep, from 14 
to 18 inches wide, and from 30 to 44 inches long 
outside. A Turner, Regulator and box will weigh 
from 12 to 18 pounds. One Turner, one Regulator 
and one box, $8.00. Additional Turners in same 
box, $2.00 each; or, two Turners and one box, 
$5.00. Additional Turners in same box, $2.00 each. 
Otherwise, no discount given. 

All orders shouldbe accompanied with Bank draft, 
P. O. money order, or Express money order. Do 
not order a Regulator for an inferior Incubator. I 
will fill orders for Egg Turners for inferior Incu- 
bators but not for Regulators. My Egg Turners 
are of that class they will recommend themselves, 
at first sight, and should you order a Regulator 
and not order a Turner, when you see one of the 
Turners you will regret you did not order one, and 
save express charges. My Regulators are differ- 
ent. While they are the best Incubator heat Regu- 
lator ever constructed, and will let the hot air pass 
out until the heat falls to the required degree, par- 
tially on the same principle that an engine will let 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 9 

of! steam to keep an equal pressure, yet they will not 
hatch eggs. They pimply regulate the heat in the 
Incubator which is decidedly important, and saves 
much care', labor, anxiety and many eggs. Regula- 
tors are made to fit drawers and when made to fit a 
drawer of odd dimensions, it cannot be used in a 
drawer of different size, therefore, do not order C. O. 
D., on trial, unless you can satisfy me beyond a doubt 
that you are not only strictly honorable but that you 
have a good Incubator and know how to run it. Oth- 
erwise it might be returned as worthless property, as 
it would be difficult to find a customer wanting a 
Regulator same size. As a rule, I will not send 
goods C. O. D. I give good references and am re- 
sponsible for what I state and do. Address all or- 
ders to J. W. Hile, Yalley Falls, Kan. 

References for integrity and financial standing, 
Hicks, Gephart and Co., bankers, Yalley Falls, Kan- 
sas, or any business man in our city. 

INCUBATORS. 

Experience has taught me to believe that a hot- 
air Incubator, made after the common -sense plan, 
with late improvements, and provided with my Heat 
Regulator and Turner, will do as good work as any 
Incubator in use. The Heater should be made per- 
fectly air-tight except where the heat enters and 
where the gas passes out; otherwise the gas would 
permeate the filling, enter the egg drawer and in- 
jure the eggs. Also take two thicknesses of heavy 
wrapping paper, one 8x10 and the other 10x12 
inches, place a sheet of tin over the paper, 12x14; 
fasten the same on the bottom of the Heater inside, 
directly under where the heat enters the heater. 
This will gis r e you a far more equal heat. 



10 AETIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

One or more small tubes from one-eighth to three- 
sixteenths of an inch in diameter, (according to the 
capacity of Incubator,) running from near the inside 
corner of the ventilator box, on top of the sand to 
outside of ventilator box and through the sawdust, 
near the lamp pipe and heater, to the top of the In 
cubator, will keep the ventilator box free from car- 
bonic acid gas. This gas, being heavier than pure 
air, settles like cold air; it flows on the bottom and 
can easily be drawn to the hottest points and carried 
off through these tubes by the suction of heat. The 
tubes in the ventilator box under the eggs should 
have a cap about 2 J inches in diameter, soldered to 
each tube -J inch above the tube; this will spread the 
cold air and prevent the eggs directly over the tubes 
from becoming injured by cold draughts. Hot water 
Incubators, those which require filling two or three 
times a day, require too much wearisome labor, care 
and guess-work. You guess you have added a suffi- 
cient quantity of hot water; you guess the water was 
hot enough, and you guess the heat will not run up 
too high before morning; after 20 days hard guess- 
ing if you are good at guess-work and have made 
no other mistake you can guess you will have a fair 
hatch, but I guess you will spoil a great many eggs 
in one season. While I cannot class these Incuba- 
tors with fraud Incubators it is difficult to draw a 
line of distinction, yet my Regulators will greatly 
improve their hatching qualities. 

In my judgment, the best way to heat an Incuba- 
tor is with circulating hot water. This will give 
you the most uniform heat with the least amount 
of labor and expense. Hard water should never be 
used. 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 11 

PLANS FOR CONSTRUCTING THE IMPROVED HAM- 
MONTON INCUBATORS. 

given below, fills the requirements of nature, equal 
to any Incubator manufactured — no exceptions — 
and at a comparatively small cost. 

"We will call the drawer 25x41, a No. drawer. 
A one drawer Incubator made for one No. drawer 
we will call a No. Incubator. A two drawer In- 
cubator made for two No. drawers, we will call a 
No. 2 Incubator. A three drawer Incubator made for 
3 No. drawers we will call a No. 3 Incubator, and 
so on to 8 drawers, each drawer to hold 200 eggs. 
We will call a one drawer Incubator, capacity, 240 
eggs, a No. 1 Incubator, drawer 30x41 inches in- 
side, and proceed to build a No. 1 Incubator, es- 
timating 1 inch common lumber at -| of an inch 
thick and use the same except as hereafter specified. 
Make three trusses with 6 legs each of 2x4 lumber 
62J inches long and 18 inches high. Separate them 
18 inches apart, and nail matched flooring on top, 
making the flcor 50^ inches wide and 61^ inches long, 
leaving the ends of the trussels to project -| of an 
inch. Make ventilator frame 8 inches deep, 32f 
wide, and 43| long, outside measurement; fasten 
this box to the floor, (on trussels), leaving an equal 
space on all sides 8|- inches wide; dress upper edges 
of this box for drawer to slide on. The drawer 
should be made 5 inches high, 32§ inches wide and 
43| inches long with an extension for sawdust. 
The drawer should be made of 1 and J inch hard 
lumber that will dress 1 and 3-16ths of an inch thick, 
(poplar will doV This will leave your drawer 30x41 
inside and will fit ventilator box. The end boards 
of the drawer should be 30§ inches long, so you 



12 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

can set each end in the side board 3-16ths of an 
inch. Draw a straight pencil mark lengthwise of 
the end board, f of an inch above the lower edge on 
the inside. Commence 3 inches from each end of 
each end board and divide the spaces 2 and 7-16 ths 
of an inch apart on the pencil mark, making 11 
marks, and bore 11 holes as marked in each end 
board, J of an inch in size, J of an inch deep for 
slats. To make the drawer after the most improved 
plan so the large end of the eggs will be higher 
than the small end, to secure the best results, you will 
want six slats |xl inch and 5 slats -JxlJ inches each 
41-| inches long and two slats for the sides of the 
drawer 41 inches long and 1 and J inches wide and 
4 of an inch thick. Plane the upper corners of the 
thick slats so they will not be over -J inch wide on 
the top. Place one, 1 inch slat between each 1 and 
J inch slat; cut each end of the 1 and J inch slats, 
so they will project J of an inch above the 1 inch 
slats; the slats should be on a level on the underside 
and ^ of an inch above the lower edge of the drawer. 
Each end should be cut to fit the holes and a nail 
driven through each end board in the ends of the 
slats. Nail or screw a strip of heavy hoop iron, 
30 inches long, crosswise in the center to the under 
side of the slats. Stretch heavy, coarsely woven 
muslin over the slats in the drawer, and nail strips 
of lath -| of an inch wide and J of an inch thick on 
the top of the cloth to the 1 inch slats to make them 
level with the 1J inch slats. I have given the length 
of the drawer as 43|| inches; but remember, this is 
a mistake on purpose. The side boards of the drawer 
should be 9£ inches longer, making the drawer 53 J 
inches long, with another end board 1 and 3-16ths 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 13 

inches thick and five inches wide, leaving a space of 
eight and 9-16ths by thirty inches for sawdust, the 
same being the front of the drawer, which will come 
even with the outside of the Incubator, to which 
you can fasten handles for pulling out the drawers. 
Next, bore five 9 -16th inch holes through the bottom 
of the floor, in the ventilator box, as follows; one 
in the center, or as near as possible, to miss the truss 
underneath, bore the other four 10 inches from each 
corner towards the center of the box. Insert a tube 
7 inches long in each hole, letting them project -J 
of an inch below the bottom; tubes to be made 
of heavy tin 9-16ths outside diameter, solder a 
small wire on each opposite side of the top of each 
tube; bend these wires -| inch above the tubes in 
opposite directions, and solder to them a cap 2J 
inches in diameter. Fill this ventilator box with 
sand within ^ inch of the top of the ventilator tubes. 
Place your drawer on your ventilator box, and nail 
one board 14 inches wide and 32 and 7-16ths inches 
long firmly to back en$ of the ventilator box letting 
the board rest on the floor with planed side next to 
drawer; nail one board to each side of ventilator box 
14 inches in width and 54 inches long; the drawer 
should project -| of an inch in front. The upper 
edges of these boards directly over front end of 
drawer should be cut down even with the top of 
the drawer. The board covering this end of the 
drawer should be 8|- of an inch wide and 34J long 
leaving the drawer to project -J of an inch. Nail a 
cleat or strip of board to front end of ventilator box 
J of an inch below the edge and one short cleat to 
the side-boards under the end of the drawer to nail 
a board under front end of drawer to, where the 



14 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

space is filled with sawdust. The heater box should 
be 6 inches deep inside, 44J inches long and 34| 
inches wide outside. Cover the top with matched 
lumber planed side downward. Cover the bottom 
with galvanized iron, make it air tight. First ar- 
range the corners where lamp tubes will come, with 
tin and paper as described on page 15. Place this 
box on the boards nailed to the ventilator box with 
galvanized iron downward. Nail one strip of board 
to the front end of the heater box to which to nail the 
top board, covering the front end of drawer. This 
will complete your frame for drawer. Bore holes for 
heater tubes through the top of the heater as fol- 
lows. Should you want the front lamp on the left 
hand front corner, bore four £ inch holes opposite 
the lamp within 2 inches of the side-board on the 
ricrht hand side commencing* within 2 inches of the 
end board opposite the lamp, measure from board 
to center of hole, and from center of hole to center 
of hole, bore 2nd hole 7i inches from 1st hole, 3rd 
hole 8 inches from 2nd, 4th hole 8-J inches from 
3rd hole, leaving a space of 18 inches, for lamp tubes 
on the back right hand side. Opposite this space 
commence near the corner as above, and bore 4 more 
holes leaving another space of 18 inches for lamp 
tube, on the front left hand corner. These holes 
will require 8 heavy tin tubes, 22 inches long and 
£ of an inch in diameter; the tubes should be placed 
in these holes perpendicularly, within -g of an inch 
of the galvanized iron. To prevent the galvanized 
iron from flopping and putting out the lamps, run 
4 or more wires through the heater, place a small 
ferrell over the end of each wire, bend wire over fer- 
.rell and solder fast; draw upper end tightly, bend 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 15 

over and fasten with staples on top. The holes for 
the lamp tubes should be cut in the sides of heater 
box, the shape of a spectacle eye, 3|x4J inches in 
size. Center of hole should be 4 inches above the 
galvanized iron in the 18 inch spaces, from center 
of heater tube to center of lamp tube, 9^ inches, leav- 
ing 7-J inches from center of lamp tube to end board. 
Your lamp elbows should be 7xl4| outside. Meas- 
urement short end of tube for common lamp chim- 
ney should be 3j| of an inch in diameter, opposite 
end 2£ or 3 inches, press this end together to form 
shape of a spectacle eye two inches wide. Cut hole 
through heavy tin same shape to fit over end of 
tube. Before nailing this tin to the heater you 
should arrange the hot air moisture apparatus, this, 
however, is not particularly necessary as there are 
other means by which you can supply moisture just 
as well. It is simply a matter of convenience and 
economy, it requires no egg space. 

HOT AIR MOISTURE APPARATUS. 

For this apparatus you will require a brass tube, 
20 inches long, from ^ to 3-16ths of an inch in di- 
ameter, letting the tube project 4 inches in the 
heater; run a tin tube 4 inches long from this end, 
down through the galvanized iron -J below the iron, 
solder tube to the iron; from this end run another 
tube diagonally across the bottom of the heater on 
opposite side near opposite lamp outside and down- 
ward in a cup of water. The cup of water is sim- 
ply to prevent the cold air from passing upward in 
the heater. The tube under the heater should be 
soldered close to the heater and run on a slight 
incline, so the steam which may condense in the 
tube will be carried off in the cup. The tube should 



16 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

"be split open on the upper side near the center of 
the heater to allow the steam or moisture to pass 
out; this tube may be from ^ to § of an inch in 
diameter. Next bore a hole in the end of the el- 
bow within J inch or less of the top, to let the brass 
tube pass through. Lamp tubes should be incased 
in a box 10 inches square and 18 inches long; cut 
a hole through the lower side of the box, near the 
end, 4J inches in diameter for lamp tube; insert a 
2 ft fruit can in this hole. Cut a hole through the 
lower end of can to tit lamp tube. Top of can 
should be left open and the edge bent over to hold 
it in place. Let the lamp pipe come just below 
the can, and fill box and can around the pipe with 
sand or clay. After your lamp attachments and 
box, covering lamp tubes, are completed, all but till- 
ing and nailing on end and top board of lamp tube 
box, take a heavy piece of galvanized iron 3 inches 
square, bore a hole through the center, place a stop- 
cock in the hole and solder firmly; run tube fro^i 
the lower end of stop-cock to outer end of bra ss 
tube; run another tube from upper end of step- 
cock to the bottom edge of a 2 quart can on top of 
lamp tube box. You can regulate this to supply any 
degree of moisture. A No. 1 Incubator will ■ re- 
quire 2 carbonic acid gas tubes a trifle over -J of an 
inch in diameter; about -J- of an inch area to 100 
eggs, is sufficient ; the suction is strong and constant 
and the Regulator will aid. 

These tin tubes can be easily made by running 
tin over wire, and pulling out the wire and soldering. 

A No. 1 Incubator Heat Regulator will require 
one tin tube 1 and|^ ofaninchin diameter opposite 
each lamp. Area of these tubes should be about 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATOR. 17 

1 and -J inches to 100 eggs. Attach as described on 
page 4 . These tubes should be made larger where 
they enter the egg chamber and pressed together, 
so they will not be over one inch wide and close 
to the heater. Board up outside of Incubator 14 
inches above the top of heated box, till and pack 
with sawdust and cover with lumber. You should 
have trusses, or some substantial arrangement on a 
level with the bottom of your egg-drawers outside 
of Incubator, to rest your drawers on. 

A one drawer Incubator made for a No. drawer 
should be made in everyway just the same as a No. 
1 Incubator except there should be 4 ventilator 
tubes in the ventilator box instead of 5 and they 
should be placed 3 inches nearer the center. This 
Incubator will be 5 inches narrower inside and out- 
side than the No. 1 and will hold 200 eggs. 

A No. 2 Incubator is made by placing two No. 
drawers together. Ventilator box should be 54£x- 
43§ inches outside measurement, with 4 ventilator 
tubes under each drawer, same as No. Incubator. 

Place a 2x8 in the center for drawers to slide on. 
Bore five or six holes through the 2x8 for air to cir- 
culate through above the sand. The heater box 
should be 56-|x44J inches outside. Arrange 3 
lamp tubes same as in No. 1 Incubator. Place them 
on the back of the Incubator one in the center, and 
one the same distance from each corner as in No. 
1 Incubator. Place one -| inch tube in the heater 
box within 1 inch of the side board in the center 
between each end of lamp tube and one tube on the 
right, and one on the left hand side of Incubator, 
within one inch of the side and within 8 inches of 
each front corner. Place seven 4 inch tubes in front 
2 



18 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

within one inch of front side 8 and -J inches apart. 
The corner tubes will come within 1 and \ inches 
of the corners. This Incubator will require 1 piece 
of 2x6 lumber, well nailed to the front of the heater 
to support the weight of the packing with a brace 
under each end of the 2x6. A. No. 3 hot air Incu- 
bator is made just the same as a No. 2 Incubator, 
except place 3 No. drawers side by side with two 
2x8 for drawers to slide on. Ventilator box will be 
82^-x43|- inches; heater box will be 83Jx44J inches. 

This Incubator will require two -| inch tubes be- 
tween each lamp ten tubes in front and one on each 
right and left hand side. Use 2x8 instead of a 2x6 
to support the packing. A No. 3 will require a 
very little larger lamp flame than a No. 2. 

A No. 4 Incubator is made by placing four No. 
drawers together, two side by side and end to end. 
Drawers pull out in opposite directions. The ven- 
tilator box should be 54 and £ by 86 and | inches. 
A 2x8 should be placed in the center of this box 
for drawers to slide on, with holes bored for air to 
circulate through. This Incubator will require 4 
lamps two on each side, same distance from each 
corner, as No. 1 Incubator, and 16 heater tubes -|of 
an inch in diameter, 24 inches long, and six £ inch 
heater tubes 24 inches long. 

Place two -| inch tubes on each side that the 
lamps are on, within 4 inches of the center on the 
side. (8 inches apart.) Place two -| inch tubes be- 
tween each ^ inch tube and each lamp. Place 
one £ inch tube in the center in each front side 
of heater box and each corner. This Incubator 
should have 16 inches of sawdust on the top, and 
will require four 2x8 nailed to the top of the heater. 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 19 

For a 150 egg Incubator make your drawer 25x32 
inches. Ventilator box should be 27f by 24§. 
Heater box 29J by 34^ outside. This Incubator 
will require six £ inch heater tubes, three opposite 
each lamp. Otherwise make it the same as No. 1 
except bore four -J inch holes, for ventilator tubes 
instead of four 5 -16th inch holes.' 

A 130 egg drawer should be 25x28 inches in- 
side measurement. Ventilator box should be 27 J 
by 32f . Heater box 2% by 33J outside. This 
will require one lamp in the back, or on one side in 
the center, and one -| inch heater tube in each cor- 
ner of the heater box and two §• tubes opposite the 
lamp 8 inches apart. Four tubes are sufficient for 
ventilator box. 

The 150 and 130 egg drawers will make good 
sizes for double Incubators. 

Eemember the ventilator boxes are all made 8 
inches deep, the floors should extend on all sides 
of ventilator boxes, 8|- inches, before the 14 inch 
boards are nailed to the ventilator. The heater 
boxes are all made six inches deep, and rest on the 
top edge of the 14 inch boards, one inch above the 
egg drawer. The 14 inch boards upon which the 
heater box rests should be screwed to one or two 
2x4 pieces of lumber and a wedge placed between 
the 2x4 and the heater box, to prevent the packing 
from tightening the drawer. 

HOT WATER INCUBATOR. 

The most practical, economical hot water Incuba- 
tor which can be made, at the least cost, can be made 
as follows. For a No. 0, a No. 1, or a 150 egg 
drawer make the Incubator in every way, as a hot air 
Incubator except the heater box which should be 10 



20 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

inches deep instead of 6 inches, make a galvan- 
ized iron tank, to tit inside of box. Nail upper edge 
well to box and solder over nail heads. Matched 
lumber will do for cover but galvanized iron sold- 
ered on, is better. Make long end of your lamp 
pipe 17 inches long, 2-| inches in diameter, place an 
elbow on the front left hand lamp tube and run a 
2-J inch pipe back within 5 or 6 inches of the inside 
of the tank, place another elbow on this tube and 
run it to the center of the tank on back end, place 
ar. other elbow on this end and run pipe to the cen- 
ter of the tank into an upright pipe 2^ inches in 
diameter, 20 inches long. Arrange pipe for right 
hand lamp same way on opposite side and run in 
same upright pipe. These pipes should be well 
soldered to prevent their leaking. Strips of tin 
should be soldered over the pipe and to the galvan- 
ized iron on the bottom to prevent them from rais- 
ing when the tank is filled. These pipes should 
run within about 3 inches of the sides and ends 
and be about 3J inches above the bottom of the tank. 
There should be a damper in the upper end of up- 
right pipe to regulate draught. The damper should 
work hard so it will stay where it may be placed. 
Make the 130 egg Incubator the same, except run 
the pipes from corner to corner, 3 inches from the 
sides and to near where you started into upright pipe 
2-| inches in diameter. This pipe should be made 
of heavy tin or galvanized iron. The only parts of 
the Poultry Keeper and Farm and Garden Incubator, 
you will require for these Incubators will be a fun- 
nel and a water -cock, to pour in and draw off water 
when necessary. Fill tank with hot water to start 
with. These tanks will require to be well supported 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATOR. 21 

with three rows of heavy wire or small bolts run- 
ning through the tank and up through 2x4 pieces 
of lumber with brace under each end to support the 
weight. These wires or bolts should be well sold- 
ered on the bottom. Two rows of wire or bolts will 
do for the small Incubators, 14 inches of sawdust 
are sufficient on the tank. You can fasten small 
shelves, to your Incubator under the lamp tubes; 
place a small box under the lamp. To take the 
lamp out, remove the box, or nail a small board to 
the edge of a board 8 inches wide and fasten it to 
the Incubator with hinges to swing out of the way 
to take out lamp in which case you will require a 
hook and staple to hold it in position, otherwise the 
lamp would not be safe fixed in this way. I do not 
manufacture or solicit orders for Incubators, yet we 
have good mechanics in our city who understand 
building them and I can have them made so a one 
drawer Incubator with lamps, one moisture gauge, 
1 thermometer, and complete in every particular, 
except filling with sand and sawdust, delivered on 
the cars in Valley Falls, will not cost to exceed from 
$25 to $40 each, according to size, style and finish, 
$2.00 less without moisture supply apparatus. La- 
bor and lumber may be cheaper in your locality, in 
which case you could have them built cheaper than 
1 could, and save the freight. 

In filling orders for Incubators I will allow six 
inches space for sawdust on the sides and 12 inches 
on the top, unless otherwise ordered. 

A sudden change of temperature will not affect 
these Incubators. It is not necessary to place them 
in the cellar, any building will do, so the wind 
does not blow through sufficient to affect the lamp 



22 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

flame. The Incubators should be at least 18 inches 
above the floor' or ground. 

WALLS OF INCUBATORS. 

The Incubators as described may appear some- 
what bulky, yet for a cheaply constructed building 
in a climate where the changes of temperature are 
great, the walls are not too thick, otherwise four 
inches of saw dust would be sufficient for the sides 
which would make the Incubators 8 inches shorter 
8 inches narrower, and the lamp pipes 4 inches 
shorter. To guard against fire, short lamp tube 
will require a strip of tin in the heater directly over 
end of lamp tubes. As heat has a tendency to rise 
and pass through, you should have at least from 
8 to 12 inches of sawdust on the top. For a light 
Incubator for a room, or a climate, where the 
changes of temperature are not very great, make 
a box 8 inches deep same size of your heater box, 
nail it to the top of the heater, give this inside tier 
of boxes a thin coating of coal tar and resin on the 
outside to exclude air; nail strips of board -J of an 
inch square around the top on the outside of the 
box on the heater. Nail strips same size perpen- 
dicularly 21 inches long, 12 or 14 inches apart un- 
der first strips, and tack building paper to the strips, 
nail strips same size on top of the paper to first 
strips, and stretch building paper over the strips 
and nail -| inch lumber on the outside. This will 
give you a double air space. Fill upper box with 
sawdust and cover with -J inch lumber. By mak- 
ing ventilator box 2 inches narrower, a 120 egg 
Incubator made in this way would be 33J by 36J 
inches and 21-| inches outside measurement, which 
is as small as an Incubator of same capacity should 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 23 

be made. The secret of success is not in the thick- 
ness of the walls or how they should be constructed; 
but in the general provisions for supplying the re- 
quirements of nature. The walls should be made 
to counteract the outside changes of temperature. 

CIRCULATING HOT WATER INCUBATORS. 

These are heated with hot water, running through 
small boilers connected to one inch gas or steam 
pipe. No tin lamp tubes, galvanized iron or tin 
neater tubes required. The heaters are left open on 
the bottom. The boilers should be round, 7-| inches 
in diameter on the bottom (with copper bottom) and 
1J to 2 inches on top and 8 inches high. For Incu- 
bator of less than 6 drawers, one boiler is sufficient, 
and the pipe should run as follows. Place an elbow 
on one end of the pipe and solder elbow in the top of 
the boiler, run the pipe from the boiler in the heater 
box within two inches of the side, to within 2 inches 
of the opposite side or end, from the boiler and back 
and fcrth in the heater from 2^ to 2-| inches apart 
and back and out to the lower edge of the boiler. 

The pipe should De on a gradual incline of 3 
inches from the top of the pipe where it enters the 
heater box to where it passes out of the heater box. 
Heater box should be 6 inches deep. The pipe 
should enter the box within two inches of the top 
and come out within one inch of the lower edge of 
the heater and should be suspended in the heater 
with hoo-fcs or wire. Bend the lower end of the 

5>ipe* (outside of the heater) downward to reach the 
ower edge of the boiler. Supply tank should be 
from 8 to 12 inches square and 5 or 6 inches deep. 
The bottom of the supply tank should be on a level 
with the top end of the steam pipe. 



24 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

Run a tube -J of an inch in diameter from the 
bottom of the supply tank to the bottom edge of 
the boiler. Run another tube same size from the 
top of the elbow (on top of the boiler) 2 inches above 
the supply tank. Bend the tube downward, 4 inches 
below supply tank, bend upwards and solder the 
tube in the bottom of the supply tank. This will 
act as a blow off and keep the water warm, in the 
tank and aid in circulating the water. Keep the 
tank covered. Hard water should not be used. * The 
boilers are heated with gasoline and gasoline stove 
burners. Coal oil will not do, as it would soon form 
a coating of soot on the bottom of the boiler. Soot 
being a strong non-cotfductor of heat, the heat would 
soon run down in the Incubator. 

The steam pipes running from the Incubator to 
the boiler should be covered with tin tubes about 
one inch larger than the pipes, the boiler should 
also have an outside covering or casing about one 
inch larger every way than the boiler, and should 
project not less than one-half inch below the edge 
of the boiler. This casing will keep the cold air 
from coming in direct contact with the boiler and 
pipe. 

A No. 6 Incubator is made by placing 6 No. 
drawers together, 3 side by side and 3 end to end. 
Ventilator box should be 82J by 130J inches out- 
side. Heater box 83J by 130|- inches. 

A No. 8 Incubator is made by placing 4 No. 
drawers side by side and 4 end to end. 

Yentilator box should be 110f by 130^ inches 
outside. The center 2 by 8 for drawers to slide on 
should have a strip -J of an inch thick nailed to it 
to make it thicker on the top and a strip ^ of an inch 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 25 

square nailed oil the top to separate the middle draw- 
ers, so an upright brace may be placed between the 
front end of the center drawers to support the weight 
of packing. 

A No. 6 and a No. 8 Incubator should have two 
boilers, which should be on a level and the pipes 
arranged, with every other turn 9J inches apart 
and 2^ or 2 J inches apart so that one turn will fit 
in the other and be about 2J or 2j? inches apart. 
When put together the pipe should rim from the top 
of one boiler into the lower end of the opposite 
boiler, and by placing the pipes on an incline, as 
above described it will place one half of the pipe, 
above the other half each side from the center in 
the heater. The heater for No's. 6 and 8 should also 
be nailed to 2 by 6 lumber to support the weight 
of packing. 

These Incubators are made the same as the hot 
air Incubators, except as stated on pages 23, 24. 

So many have written me (without enclosing 
stamps) to know if myTncubators would work with- 
out my attachments. If you will add the carbonic 
acid gas tubes and the caps over ventilator tubes, 
there is not an Incubator made that will do any bet- 
ter work without a heat Regulator and Egg Turner 
than those described in this book. "Without my 
Turner the bottom of the drawer should be level. 
I consider all Incubators comparatively frauds, with- 
out a heat Regulator and some way by which to 
turn the eggs otherwise than by hand. 

CIRCULATING- HOT WATER MOISTURE APPARATUS. 

Run a half inch pipe from the top of the boiler 
or steam pipe, through the heater above the inside 
pipe, to outside and down in a cup of water. Place 



26 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

a stop-eock in this pipe near the boiler to regulate 
the moisture.' 

There should be a number of small holes bored 
in the upper side of the pipe to let the steam pass 
out in the heater. A hand hole in the heater so 
you can place pans of water on the top of the steam 
pipe will do as well. 

RULES FOR RUNNING AN INCUBATOR. 

Do not cool your eggs too much. If you pull 
out your drawers twice a day, from two to ten min- 
utes is sufficient for cooling;, according to the out- 
side temperature. 

If your Incubator is provided with one of my 
heat Regulators, when it is thoroughly adjusted, 
and when the dial is marked to indicate the degrees 
of temperature on the top of the eggs, and you know 
there is sufficient moisture, it is not necessary to 
pull out the drawer more than once or twice a week. 

With Regulator, and Turner, pulling out the 
drawer to cool the eggs is unnecessary. I some- 
times let my Incubator run 10 days without pull- 
ing out the drawer except to test the eggs, and have 
hatched as high as 94 per cent, of fertile eggs. I 
consider 75 per cent, a small hatch if the eggs are 
No. 1. 

Before you fill your Incubator run it 2 or 3 days 
or until you thoroughly understand it, and get the 
rods properly adjusted. The heat should be about 
108 degrees in the Incubator when you fill it, the 
eggs will cool it down. Up to the 14th day of incu- 
bation hold the heat as near 103 degrees as possible 
then reduce the heat to 102 degrees, in warm weather. 

In cold weather it is better to hold the heat at 
104 degrees the first 14 days, then drop to 103 de- 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 27 



grees, as in cold weather it requires more heat to 
have the right degree of heat below the centre of the 
eggs. As the warm weather advances, yon can re- 
duce the heat, but not below 102 degrees even after 
the 14th day. Turn the eggs twice a day at least, 
three times would be better. The practice of rolling 
the eggs by hand, is a very bad one, for three reasons. 
First, in cold weather it takes too long. Second, 
you jar them more or less by knocking them to- 
gether. 3d, the per cent, lost by hand handling 
will not pay. The turn -over trays are very little 
better. It is much better to roll the eggs over by 
one motion without jarring them. 

Never sprinkle your eggs. Too much moisture, 
particularly in the first stages of incubation, causes 
the chick to grow so rapidly it tills the shell so 
tightly, that when it is ready to come out, it can- 
not turn in the shell to pick its way out, and there- 
fore pierces the shell with its bill and dies. 

If your Incubator is not provided with my appara- 
tus for supplying moisture, zinc pans of water under 
the egg drawer will answer the purpose. In using 
pans, ordinarly 64 square inches of surface to 100 
eggs is sufficient, or in that proportion, according to 
the capacity of your Incubator. Yet, during rainy or 
damp weather, or in localities where the atmosphere 
is very damp, less would be better. In high alti- 
tudes where the atmosphere is very dry, 64 inches 
would not be sufficient. Make your pans to hold 
about 50 square inches to 100 eggs, then add and 
take out smaller vessels to suit the conditions of at- 
mosphere and the different stages of incubation. 

In cold weather the eggs will require more water 
surface under the ego; drawer than in warm weather. 



28 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

The sand and. saw-dust, or filling in the incubator, 
should be dry to commence with, otherwise you 
might have too much moisture. The safest way 
would be to use a moisture guage. My improved 
guages will give you the proper degree of humidity 
necessary to produce best results. In any climate, 
longitude, latitude or altitude where man can work, 
breathe and live, chicks can be hatched. Sufficient 
water surface should be supplied so the guage will 
fall from 2J to 3 degrees in 24 hours, up to the 5th 
or 6th day of incubation, then add more water surface, 
so the guage will fall 2 degrees in 24 hours. 

The 17 th or 18th day of incubation increase the 
moisture so the guage will fall about 1J degrees in 
24 hours. This may be done by placing cups of 
wet sand in the egg drawer, (cloth or sponges in 
cups will sour, smell badly and permeate the air) or 
by spraying the eggs slightly, once or twice a day. 
Better to add more water surface under the drawer. 
When the eggs are cooled to 90 degrees or less, with 
experience you can readily pick out the unfertile and 
dead eggs by feeling them ; they will be colder than 
the fertile eggs. When eggs begin to ooze or sweat, 
take them out they will injure the eggs near them. 
You will gain more by filling the space left by taking 
out the unsound eggs than by leaving it vacant. The 
loss from the slight variations of heat and moisture 
the added eggs will be subjected to, will be slight. 

Never adtl cold eggs to warm eggs in an incuba- 
tion. It would be better to place a cloth in a box, 
place your eggs in the box and cover with two or 
three thicknesses of cloth. Place a thermometer in 
the box on the top of the cloth ; place the same in 
your cooking stove oven; leave the doors partially 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 29 

open, and keep the thermometer on the ton at from 
100 to 103 degrees from 2 to 3 hours, or until the 
thermometer under the cloth rises to 98 degrees. It 
is better to fill yonr drawer at the commencement. 
If yonr Incubator holds two or more drawers, you 
can safely fill one every day or two after filling first 
drawer, by warming the eggs as above. Regardless 
of the capacity of your Incubator, it should be fur- 
nished with at least three correct thermometers. If 
your Incubator will distribute the heat uniformly t 
which it should do, the thermometers may be placed 
side by side, but resting against different eggs ; the 
top of the bulb should be even with the top of the 
eggs, opposite end of the thermometer should be a 
very little higher than the bulb; place one or two 
small blocks of wood under each thermometer to 
raise them. If the thermometers register alike 
from 102 to 103 degrees, but not over 104 degrees, 
you may expect all is well. But if they vary from 
1 to 3 degrees, something is wrong, probably one 
thermometer may rest' on a fertile egg and one on 
an unfertile egg and one on a rotten egg; or, if the 
chicks are about ready to come out, a chick may 
have struggled in the shell and worked up a fever, 
heat and raised the mercury. .No matter, you 
should find the difficulty before changing the temper- 
ature, this you can do by testing the three eggs. Al- 
ways keep the bulb of the thermometer against fertile 
eggs. Do not burn your lamp flame too high, or you 
will ventilate your eggs too much. If the valve cap 
opens slightly now and then, it is sufficient, when 
you remove the lamp to fill and trim, always place a 
cloth or something in the lamp tube to prevent the 
strong draught of air from cooling the heater. 



30 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 



Never press or pull the turner rods with a jerk- 
Should an egg .get broken in the Incubator and stick 
to the turner, open the drawer and raise the turner 
carefully to loosen it. Slide the drawer in and out 
carefully; use black lead to make it slide easily. 
Never use grease. 108 or even 110 degrees will do 
little damage for a few hours. When overheated pull 
out the drawer and let the eggs coo i down to 80 or 85 
degrees. 

When hatching in cold weather tack a piece of 
cardboard under the Incubator over each ventilator 
hole, to cover about one-half of each hole. When 
you open the drawer while the chicks are hatching, 
remove the loose shells quickly and guard against 
keeping the drawer out too long or you may chill 
and injure the chicks before they are dry; do not 
remove them until they are dry, then place them in 
warm quarters. The above rules will apply to al- 
most any Incubator in use. 




ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 31 



This cut represents the bottom of the egg drawer 
and egg turner with rod for turning the eggs; also 
4 eggs with thermometer in position. 
These thermometers are made to order by 

JOHN KEJSTDALL & CO., 

NEW LEBANON, N. Y., 
manufacturers of 

Thermometers for Incubators, Dairy House Window 

Show, Eegistering, Decorative Art and Fancy 

Work. Also Aneroid Barometers, Hy- 

dromters, &c, &c. 

Goods made to Order in any Style or Quality. 

Send for Catalogue. 

I furnish the Incubator Thermometers with blocks 
for 75 cents by mail. 

INCUBATION. 

Ill-shaped eggs or unnatural sizes are not profit- 
able to incubate. Insufficient heat will retard in- 
cubation, produce weakly chicks, and not unfre- 
quently prevent the chicks from properly absorbing 
the yelks and from healing as they otherwise would. 

Too much heat and moisture will force an unnat 
ural growth, and produce deformity and weakness. 

When the large ends of the eggs are higher than 
the smaller ends, the chicks invariably form with 
their heads in the large ends, and can pick their 
way out more easily. And should their bill be 
downward when they take their first breath, they 
are not apt to drown by the water and mucous in 
the shell. When the small ends of the eggs are 
higher than the large ends (during the first stages 
of incubation,) the chicks are apt to form with their 



32 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

heads in the smaller ends, many of which cannot 
pick their way out. My Incubator drawers and 
turners are arranged to obviate these difficulties. 
These turners will w r ork just as well on a level sur- 
face as on an irregular surface. The only object in 
having the bottom of the drawer irregular, is, the 
turners will keep the eggs in proper position for 
hatching, which is more important than is generally 
supposed; thousands of chicks drown in their shells. 

My drawers and turners prevent this difficulty; 
with them you will hatch a larger per cent, of eggs. 
The turners are also temperature dividers, as well 
as egg turners; they divide the upper stratum of 
air from the lower, and therefore keep the eggs 
cooler on the under side, which aids in producing a 
healthier circulation of blood. When the eggs are 
turned, warm side downward, the little veins con- 
tract, and force the blood upwards, then follows a 
reaction, and the blood rushes to the lower side to 
aid in supplying warmth. 

This also proves one of the necessities of turning 
the eggs, the turners make the necessary difference 
in the temperature between the upper and lower part 
of the egg to produce a healthier circulation of the 
blood while the chick is being formed, and there- 
fore produces a stronger, healthier chick. A larger 
per cent, of eggs can be hatched and the chicks will 
be stronger and healthier hatched with proper artifi- 
cial means than with hens, but not with fraud Incu- 
bators. 

Many Incubators are entirely too small in pro- 
portion to the number of eggs they are intended to 
hold. In crowding so many eggs into a small space, 
you lose many by the accumulation of carbonic acid 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 33 

gas, and deprive the eggs and chicks of pure oxygen, 
which is necessary to sustain life. If you could 
keep a proper degree of humidity and temperature, 
it would be difficult to injure the eggs by giving 
them too much space and draught. The philoso- 
phy is, the heat dries the air, the draught carries 
off the moisture, and too much draught will carry off 
the moisture faster than the water will evaporate 
sufficiently to keep the eggs in good condition, there- 
fore the chicks will dry in the shell and die. 

Strong, healthy chicks are not altogether due, 
however, to the best mode of hatching, but, to a 
great extent, to the age, vigor, and health of the 
parents. Then, again, to produce best results, 
birds should be supplied with proper food, in suffi- 
cient quantities, so the eggs will be supplied with 
such fluids in sufficient quantities necessary to pro- 
duce best results. Their natural appetite will dic- 
tate to them such varieties of food as they may re- 
quire from time to time to supply deficiencies, if 
the same may be within their reach. A hen has no 
knowledge of science, should she succeed in hatching 
every egg, it would be due to strict attention to bus- 
iness, under favorable circumstances. 

EGG TESTER. 

One of the best. Make a tight box 10 inches 
square outside; paint it black inside. Make a hole 
3 inches in diameter, in one end, stretch and tack 
a piece of soft leather over the hole, cut a hole in 
the leather 1 inch wide and 1 J inches long the shape 
of an egg Bore an inch hole in the center of the op- 
posite end, and place a tube in this hole, 6 inches long, 
letting it project 5 inches. This tube may be tin 
vr paper. Place the box so the large end of the egg 



34 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATOR. 



will be upward, and from yon. ; cut another hole in 
the center of the box on. the right hand side, large 
enough to pass your hand in with an egg. Place a 
black cloth over the box to cover your hand to ex- 
clude the light. Press the egg lightly against the 
heater on the inside, large end up and look through 
to a bright lamp-light — sunlight is better. I usu- 
ally test my eggs the sixth or seventh day of Incu- 
bation, and take out *all unfertile eggs. You can 
see a dark spot floating in the upper part of a fertile 
egg; from this spot you can see small veins run- 
ning in various directions. Unfertile eggs will have 
the appearance of a fresh egg and 
should be left out. 

STANDARD MOISTURE GAUGE. 

I am indebted to J. L. Camp- 
bell, the famous Eureka Incuba- 
tor man, of West Elizabeth, Pa., 
through the Poultry Keeper, for 
the idea of this gauge. His gauge 
is a straight glass tube, £ of an 
inch in diameter, from four to six 
inches long, set in a block of wood. 

My gauges are 3 inches high, 
upper part \ inch in diameter, 
lower part 1 and 5-16 inches. The 
degree marks are closer together 
than as represented in the cut. 
The gauges are filled with water 
and placed in the egg drawer. 
The moisture is supplied by plac- 
ing pans of water under the egg 
drawer, or with cups of wet sand 
in the drawer or with moisture ap- 




ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 35 

?aratus. If you have sufficient moisture in your 
ncubator so the water in the gauge will evaporate 
as described on page 28, the moisture will be just 
right. Should the water evaporate faster in the 
gauge, add more moisture. Should it not evaporate 
fast enough in the gauge, diminish the supply of 
moisture. You will find these gauges absolutely 
reliable. They should be filled every two or three 
days, until the moisture supply is adjusted to the 
right degree. Price of these gauges is 25 cents, by 
mail. Length, 2|, 2| and 3 inches. Will send 3 
inch gauges unless otherwise ordered. 

BROODERS. 

The following Brooders are made two stories high, 
each story is divided in two parts. You should have 
two Brooders for each one drawer Incubator. The 
chicks should be placed in the upper story until they 
are three weeks old, then placed below to give room 
for the next brood. 

For one Brooder make two heaters, one six inches 
deep and one four inches deep, 28x48 inches out- 
side. Cover one side of each box with galvanized 
iron, and nail matched lumber to the edges of the 
six inch box over the iron. Place a few small screws 
through the iron in the matched lumber to keep the 
iron from sagging. Cut holes in one side of the 
six inch box for the lamp, same as for No.2 Incuba- 
tor. Next, place the four inch box (with galvanized 
iron downward) on top of the six inch box, and bore 
seven -| of an inch holes near the side opposite 
where the lamp will come, through the iron and 
matched boards, about eight inches apart; bore two 
more hole3 within four inches of the center on the 
side on which the lamps are placed. Bore a % of 



36 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

an inch hole in the center for ventilator tube. 
Make a box twelve inches deep, 28x48 inside to lit 
outside of the four inch box; let this box projectl-| 
inches below the galvanized iron, and nail to neater. 
Make another box eight inches deep, same size, to 
fit over lower heater; let this box project 2 inches 
below the heater and nail to the heater. Separate 
these boxes, so the lower edge of upper outside box 
will come 3^ inches above the top of the lower heat- 
er; nail three strips two inches wide on each side of 
these boxes, letting the ends project 3| inches be- 
low the lower edge of the heater for legs. Next, 
place nine 12 inch heater tubes in the holes, letting 
them come within £ of an inch of the lower galvan- 
ized iron (when nailed on), solder these tubes to the 
iron to prevent them from leaking gas. 

Place one -| inch tube 30 inches long in the center 
within £ of an inch of the lower floor, place another 
J inch tube 13§ inches long by the side of this long 
tube in the upper heater, let it come within £ of an 
inch of the upper floor and solder these tubes to the 
iron. Arrange a sheet of zinc 12 inches square, with 
paper underneath, in the heater above, and below the 
end of lamp tubes where the heat enters, and nail 
galvanized iron on the bottom 28x48 inches, let- 
ting the outside box project below the iron. Cover 
top of inside box with matched lumber and fill with 
sawdust. Lamp tubes should be boxed the same as 
for an Incubator. Long end of tubes should be 
2 inches shorter. To divide the Brooders in two 
divisions saw in the 8 and 12 inch boards on each 
side in the center up to the iron and stretch through 
a strip of wire netting, tack cotton flannel to the 
8 and 12 inch boards to rest on the chicks. Each 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 37 

division of each Brooder should have heavy building 
paper well oiled to slide in on each floor, to be taken 
out and cleaned while the chicks are outside. The 
slides should be drawn out from each end. The 
heater tubes should be protected with wire netting 
to keep the chicks from being pressed against them 
and injured by heat. There should be a heavy 
fringe tacked around upper and lower division to 
reach the floor; each floor should be 6 inches wide on 
all sides. Make the runways for lower divisions of 
Brooder on each end; runways for upper divisions 
should be on the side opposite the lamps. A cheap- 
ly constructed building 12x16 will do for two 
double Brooders and will accommodate MO chicks 
and leave an alleyway through the center to attend to 
lamps, &c. The chicks should have larger runways 
outside of the buildings. 

FEEDING AND CARE OF LITTLE CHICKS. 

No doubt the following will meet with opposition 
as nearly all have their own ideas on the subject. 
The word is, feed unfertile, hard boiled eggs. I 
have had enough experience in that direction and 
decline to agree with public opinion on that point. 
Fertile or unfertile eggs, eggs that are not stale are 
excellent food for young chicks; also for hens; but 
not hard boiled. It is not their natural food as rep- 
resented. Hard boiled yelks are not easily digested, 
they also cause constipation. Chicks should be fed 
within from 18 to 24 hours after they are hatched. 
Bread crumbs moistened with raw egg^ and boiled 
wheat is excellent. After they are 3 days old give 
them all the dry grain they will eat. Wheat, crack- 
ed corn, millet, sorghum seed, etc. etc., as follows: 
Their first feed in the morning should be boiled 



38 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 



wheat or soft food: add a little finely chopped cook- 
ed meat or egg, to their soft food, and about one- 
half as much salt as you would use to salt food for 
the table. Give them as much as they will eat up 
clean, and no more. During the day let them help 
themselves to dry grain. If they do not run on 
grass, give them all the fine chopped green food 
they will eat. 

About the best way to feed dry grain is have two 
boxes, one large low box with about one inch of chaff 
or finely cut hay or straw for scratching box, and one 
box made as follows: For 100 chicks make a box 3 
feet long V shape; one side \ inch lumber 3 \ inches 
wide, front side a strip of tin or zinc 2 \ inches wide. 
Turn over upon edge so the metal will not injure 
them, nail the metal to the edge of the board — place 
a division in the box for two kinds of grain, and cover 
with glass with the corners ground off, leaving suffi- 
cient space for their heads to pass in under the glass. 
Keep each division of this box full of dry grain. If 
you feed but two kinds of dry grain, fill the feed box 
with one kind and throw a few handf uls of the other 
kind in the scratch box once or twice a day; if yon 
feed 3 kinds, keep 2 kinds in the feed box: if you 
use 4 kinds give them a change in their scratch box 
and feed box. Cracked corn should be sifted before 
throwing in the scratching box; the fine meal given 
in their soft food. 

The object in giving them soft food in the morn- 
ing is, their craws are empty and they are hungry 
and the soft food will more readily relieve their 
hunger and prevent them from gorging themselves 
with dry grain. When they become accustomed to 
having dry grain by them continually, if they have 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 39 

their soft food in the morning they will not eat any- 
more dry grain than they require. The kind of 
grain which may be fed sparingly they will scratch 
hard for in their scratching- box. Make a box sim- 
ilar to feed box with 3 divisions for coarse sand, 
bone meal and charcoal, and give them clear, fresh 
water in fountains. Keep their runs clean and give 
them good dusting material and a warm place to go 
to when they are cold. 

We have Langshan that weighed 3| fbs. each when 
14 weeks old. We find our chicks do well on the 
above method of feeding. 

BUSINESS NOTES. 

No questions answered except on receipt of a cash 
order, or two 2 cent stamps. It is enough for me to 
give my time, without furnishing stamps and sta- 
tionery. 

Two stamps would be a trifle to you, yet it would 
not cover the cost to me as I did not make allowance 
in my prices for this expense. I cannot give my 
time to writing letters at my own expense. The way 
letters of inquiry have been coming in, in propor- 
tion to the orders, I should have at least $1.50 more 
for the Regulators to cover this unnecessary expense. 
You are at liberty to manufacture anything describ- 
ed in this book except the Regulator and Egg Turner. 

Patents granted on Egg Turner, Oct. 31st, 1887. 
On Incubator Heat Regulator, Jan. 5, 1888. 1 in- 
tend to protect my rights. 

By Nov. 1, 1888, I will complete an illustrated 
work entitled, "The Honest Poultryman's Compan- 
ion," devoted more especially to the mechanical 
branch of the business. (I would state, however, 
the branch of the poultry business in which I am 



40 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 



at times the most deeply interested is picking the 
bones). 

My book will show a practical way by which sev- 
en or eight Brooders can be arranged to accommo- 
date 1,000 chicks or less, and supply each with an 
abundance of fresh, warm air, and dispose of the 
carbonic acid gas; at the same time giving each 
Brooder any degree of heat desired. All regulated 
to a? different degree of heat with one Regulator. 

It will be more thorough on important points, 
simply referred to in this book. It will be neatly 
bound, printed on good paper and contain much 
valuable information not easily obtained. Should 
you want this book let me know soon by postal card 
and I will notify you when the books are ready. 
Price, 50 cts. Otherwise, should this book meet 
with no better success than my first the third will 
never go to press. 

RECAPITULATION. 

Zinc will answer in place of tin and paper as de- 
scribed on page 9. It is also better for ventilator 
and heater tubes than tin, as it will not rust. 

The heated air, in circulating hot-water Incuba- 
tors (for regulating the heat) may be taken from 
the top and center of the heater box. 

For JSTo. 00 and No. 000 Incubators, a wood 
chimney placed on the back or side of the heater is 
just as good as the tin tubes for regulating purposes. 
Make the top square so the valve cap will fit in- 
side, cover the top with a small board; cut a round 
hole in the cover to fit in valve cap. Lower opening 
for hot air to enter should be from 1x5 to 1x6 inches 
in the clear. 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 41 

One lamp will do for the 150 egg Incubator, No. 
CO, if it is placed in the center on the back of the 
Incubator. 

The heater tubes should then be arranged the 
same as the 130 egg Incubator, No. 000. No. 1 
drawer is 30 inches wide inside and holds 12 eggs in 
each row. No, drawer is 25 inches wide and holds 
10 eggs to the row. Should you want a drawer to 
hold more or less eggs to the row, allow 2^ inches 
in width for each row. 4| inches in height will do 
as well as 5 inches for drawer. 1J inches between 
upper edge of the drawer and the bottom of the 
heater will do as well as 1 inch and will give more 
space for regulator tubes. Hard pine makes good 
drawers. . 

In constructing a different Incubator from No. 1, 
if you will be governed by the plans for constructing 
No. 1 and make the necessary difference in meas- 
urement and note the change as specified, you will 
have no difficulty in constructing any Incubator 
mentioned in this book. 

My Regulators and Turners are a decided im- 
provement to the Poultry Keeper and Common 
Sense Incubators. A good way to order a Regula- 
tor and Turner is to order a drawer complete; the 
drawers are very cheap. 

The only practical way by which the heat can be 
successfully regulated, to obviate the outside and 
lamp changes of temperature in an Incubator, is 
by means of a machine that will regulate the heat 
by the heat, in the egg chamber. My machine will 
do this. 

Yalve caps will be made to fit over valve cups or 
pipes of the following sizes: 



42 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

No. 000, capacity 1 30 eggs, diameter of cap 24 inches. 



u 


00 


<< 





tc 


1 


u 


2 


a 


3 


u 


4 


u 


6 


(( 


8 



150 " 


a 


200 " 


ic 


240 " 


t< 


400 u 


U 


600 " 


(1 


800 " 


a 


1200 " 


" 


1600 " 


u 


saps will cost 25 ce 


a m 


50 


TESTIMONIALS. 



2J 


t< 


2f 


t< 


3 


a 


3* 


u 


4 


tt 


5 


u 


6i 


a 


7 


it 



No. 6 and No. 8 



Mr. Hile forwarded to me a Eegulator for experiment, 
but which arrived too late to test before he issued his 
book. I can easily see, from my experience, that it will 
be a valuable acquisition to those contemplating the 
construction of an Incubator, and it is a surprise that 
some one had not thought of the plan before. In a 
future number of the Poultry Keeper my results will 
be published, and I have no doubt they will be very fa- 
vorable. P. H. Jacobs, Ed. Poultry Keeper. 

["When Mr. Jacobs tests the Egg Turner in connection with my im- 
proved drawer, he will see another point that wilt make him wonder 
some one had not thought of it before. Mr. Jacobs, editor of the Poul- 
try Keeper, published in Parksburg. Pa., is well known by over 100,- 
000 readers of hit) journal, as being a man, who, in defense of right and 
justice, recognizes or fears neither friend nor foe, when they oppose 
him.] 

Mr. Hile, Dear Sir: Being a breeder of Fancy Poul- 
try, and having had considerable experience with Incu- 
bators, I do not hesitate to state emphatically that your 
Incubator Heat Regulators and Turners are not equaled 
in this country, and that your Incubators are not sur- 
passed. In all, they make the most practical Incubator 
in use. W. B. McCoy. 

Valley Falls, Kan. 

Mb. Hile, Dear Sir : I built an Incubator last spring 
after your plan, and purchased your Egg. Turner and 
Heat Regulator. I do not think they can be beaten. I 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 



43 



believe I can beat the best hen in America hatching 
chickens. Enclosed is 25 cents for Moisture Guage. 
Respectfully, P. J. Toby. 

W. W. Junction, Wis. 

[Mr. Toby is a reliable breeder of Langshans, R. C. W. Leghorna 
and Mainmotb Bronze Turkeys.] 

Mr. Hile: Having seen one of your Incubators in 
operation I am satisfied it is just what I want to hatch 
my Plymouth Rock, Light Brahma and White Leghorn 
eggs in. My eggs are too valuable to spoil in a snide 
Iucubator. Your Regulator works to perfection. Let 
me know your price of a No. 1 Incubator without out- 
side casing. Yours truly, F. C. Harwood. 

South Cedar, Kan. 

Mr. Hile: Your Regulator and Turner received. I 
do not see why some men have doubts about their work- 
ing; any man with any brains can see through it at a 
glance, so simple and yet so correct. I have tested it, 
and would never run another Incubator without one of 
your Regulators and Turners. I made a drawer after 
plans in your book, and it is another one of the best 
things I ever saw. I would not take anything for that 
book if I could not get another. You can put my name 
down for your coming book; let me know when it will 
be ready. Enclosed is 25 cents for Moisture Guage; I 
know it is jast like the rest of your things. If your in- 
ventions please everybody like they do me, you are 
bound for the top of the ladder if you are not there al- 
ready. Yours truly, W. E. Humphreyville. 

Houston, Tex. 

J. W. Hile : You can say for C. B. Cage, that your 
Regulator and Turner takes the cake, baker and all. It 
is money thrown away to buy most any of the patent 
machines. I have one after your plan, boiler and pipes. 
The Regulator works as fine as J- degree. I have seen 
most all kinds and would not exchange my machine for 
any of them. You can say for me in language as strong 
as you please, that your inventions are perfect and en- 
tirely reliable and are the only ones I have ever seen 
that are safe and sure. Chas. B. Cage. 

Shelbyville, Ind. 



4:4: ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

[Mr. Cage is well known as a prominent breeder and as a man of in- 
tegrity; the Wyandott prize winner.] 

Mr.Hile: I built a Hot Air Incubator after the plans 
in your book and it works perfectly. I have been try- 
ing for some time to get a good practical Incubator and 
find that yours fills the bill exactly. 

Yours truly, E. H. McAethuk. 
Meridian, Miss. 

[Mr. McArthur publishes the Southern Poultry Guide, price, 50cts. 
It is an excellent journal aud keeper up with the times. Send for a 
•copy.] 

LATEST IMPROVEMENTS. 

By making the drawers 4^ inches high outside 
(this will leave them 2J inches deep inside) and by- 
making the ventilator box £ of an inch narrower, or 
by raising the heater box 1 \ inches to give 2 J inches 
space between the bottom of the heater and the top 
of. the egg drawer, I can furnish regulators to tit 
in this space to regulate lamp flames of from one to 
four lamps to one Incubator. 

In ordering lamp regulators give exact measure- 
ment of this space, and state which way the drawer 
slides in, and the thickness of the walls. 

These regulators will work in any Incubator hav- 
ing 2^ inches space or more between the drawer 
and the heater. They are absolutely reliable and 
cannot get out of order. Price for one lamp Incu- 
bator, boxed, $5.00, 25 cents extra for each additional 
lamp attchments, for common or any kind of lamps. 

In starting an Incubator, the regulators should 

not be connected with the lamps until the heat is up 

to the required degree inside. Otherwise, as the 

heat would rise, the flame would be turned down, 

and make it difficult to raise the heat inside. 

The following dimensions are sufficient for Incu- 
ts 



ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 45 

bators with these regulators. Heater box, 5^ inches 
deep, inside; space for regulator 2^ to 2J inches. 
Yentilator box 6 inches inside; drawer 4 1 outside; 
space for sawdust for walls 4 to 5 inches; space for 
sawdust on top of heater 8 inches. The drawers 
may also be made of thinner lumber. Otherwise, 
they should be made the same as described, except 
the tubes should be shoiter in proportion. Short 
lamp tubes, should have tin above the tube inside 
of the heater to guard against fire. 

These Incubators can be taken through an ordin- 
ary door. The drawer regulators, regulate the heat 
by opening and closing a valve to let the heat pass 
out of the egg chamber or heater box. They are 
not practically adapted to regulate the heat by rais- 
ing and lowering the lamp flame. 

Lamp Regulators will operate a valve as well 
as lamp flame, or both at the same time. You are 
at liberty to manufacture my Incubators for your 
own use, but not for the market. Authorized 
manufacturers are 

J. L. Wilson, Orangeville, 111. 
Frank Knowles, Little Hocking, Ohio. 
J. W. Hile, Valley Falls, Kan. 
Prices are reasonable. There will be a slight 
difference in prices owing to the variations in price 
of lumber, yet it will pay to order from the nearest 
f?.ctory. The Incubators are made to work in har- 
mony with science and philosophy. Parties want- 
ing Regulators and Turners should order of me. 

PRICES OF LAMP INCUBATORS AND SUPPLIES. 

It will be noticed I have made a reduction in my 
prices of Regulators and Egg Turners. My pres- 
ent facilities for manufacturing have permitted me 
to do so. 



46 ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION. 

No. 1 Hot Water, complete, capacity, 240 eggs, $36.00 
" " " " " 2"QP H 3*2.00 

" 00 '' " " " 150 " 28.00 

" 000 " " " " 130 " 26.00 

For Circulating Hot Water Incubators, same capaci- 
ty, add 10 per cent, to the above prices. 
No. I Hot Air, complete, capacity, 240 eggs, 30.00 
" " " " •' 200 " 28.00 

" 00 " " " " 150 " 26.00 

" 000 " " «• " 130 " 25.00 

Valve Kegulators boxed for shipping, $5.25 

Lamp " " " « for one lamp, $5.00 

25 cents extra for each additional lamp attachments. 
Egg Turners, capacity, 240 or upwards, $2.25 

under 240 to 200 2.00 

" 200 to 150 1.75 

" 150 to 100 1.50 

Egg Drawers, No.l, $2.25; No. 0, $2.00; No. 00, $1.75: 
No. 000, $1.50. 
Incubator Lamps, each, 65 cents. 

Elbows, each, 30 " 

Zinc Moisture Pans, per 50 square inches, 15 " 
" Heater Tubes, 18 to 20 inches long, each, 12J " 
" Ventilator Tubes with caps, 6 u 

Moisture Guages, post-paid, 25 " 

Thermometers, "* 75 " 

Carbonic Acid Gas Tubes, each, 15 " 

These tubes are a decided improvement to any In- 
cubator, if they run from under the egg drawer as 
described on page 10. 

In ordering Incubators or Kegulators, state the 
kind of Regulator you want. If Lamp Regulators, 
state the sides the lamps are on and the distance 
they are from each corner. For Lamp Incubator 
Lamp Regulators are preferable. For Poultry Keep- 
er, Farm and Garden and Scientific American Incu- 
bators (without lamps) the Valve Regulators are 
used. J. W. Hile, 

Yalley Falls, Kansas. 



Grind Your Own Bone Meal, Oyster 
Shells and Corn in the $5 Hand Mill 

Ames, Story Co., la. (F. Wilson's Pat.). Circulars Free, jffffo 

tiemenrfam^tui WILSON BROS. Eastoi?, Pa.ffiAf| 

100 per ct. more made in keeping poultry. 

Republic, Republic Co., Kan., Apr. 20, 1885. 
Messrs. Wilson Bros., Easton, Pa. — Dear Sirs: Your 
Little Giant Mill came to hand in good order on the 
15th. Put it up in the poultry house, and tested it to 
the utmost, and if there was any break to it, it would 
have been useless now. But it still lives and does good 
business. Have ground bones, field corn, pop corn, peas, 
and some three-year-old onion sets, and I am satisfied 
that it will grind almost anything, "if it is only dry." 
Am well pleased with it. Wishing you success, and 
recommending your mill to the poultry fraternity, I re- 
main, Yours truly, J. J. Galusha. 

New York, March 3, 1883. 
W T ilson Bros. : The $5 mill has given great satisfac- 
tion. W 7 e have ground oyster shells and ordinary 
kitchen bones in it, all of which the fowls eat greedily 
and lay well in return therefor. Am very much pleased. 
Yours truly, J. Phin, Ed'r. 

294 Broadway, New York. 
Prop'r. the Industrial Pub. Co. 

Victoria, Tenn., September 25, 1884. 
Dear Sirs: We received the mill all right, and are 
highly pleased with it. Everybody ought to have one, 
whether farmer, gardener or poultry raiser. 

Yours truly, T. S. Harbison, 

Mr. Wilson, Dear Sir: I have used one of your mills 
for the past 3 years. Their value in the poultry busi- 
ness cannot be appreciated without giving them a trial, 
and knowing their value, I solicited your advertisement 
for my book. Respectfully, J. W. Hile. 



IOWA PRINTING CO., 



PUBLISHERS, 



II Blank Book Maoobetaren, J 



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printers ar?d Bidders. 



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We give special attention to mail c Jers, and are ready at 
all times to send samples and answer correspondence promptly. 
Write to us when in need of anvthing in our line. 



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